Invasive plant removal is tedious and time consuming but worth it when you see the native wildlife enjoying their native habitat and the beauty of the now sparse native foliage. Its necessary to plant native plants immediately following the removal of the invasive plants to hold back the invasive plants. Plant native grass, wildflower, and native shrubs and pioneer species of trees so that they grow rapidly helping limit the sun from the ground foliage and potential of invasive plants taking root first. First to grow is first to establish.
Develop a Tree Canopy with Pioneer Species Trees
Manage the area until a tree canopy is developed, or native meadow. If manual removal is not feasible, weed whack before the invasive can produce berries to limit its spread.
Native Berrying shrubs to have nature help battle back
Have native berrying shrubs and encourage their growth until the native develops berries. Caging prevents deer from instantly eating the native before it berries. Exponential speed of growth and berry production which helps get your area filled with bird spread native shrubs eaten from your site.
Remember to propagate Native with Live Stakes
When the deer rip up your native shrubs, voles eat your sycamores, or you just want to spread your natives from your garden or nursery, remember many native plants can regrow from a stem, branch, or whole section of the tree or shrub. Just replant or jam it back in the ground in a moist area.
Invasive plant profile: Knotweed
Growth: Takes over, constantly tries to expand, but you can hold a line Manually pulling if monthly monitored
Ways to remove: Herbicide Horrible.
If sparse and new you may manually remove.
If Knot weed is established follow
Penn State Extension Herbicide Recommendations:
Cut in June
Herbicide 8 weeks later
2 years in a row
Observations:
River Birch can be planted after first year's herbicide application.
4 foot Gray Birch planted within an established area after manually removing without died shortly after planting, it did not come out of dormancy
Recent Developments in managing Knotweed:
The knotweed psyllid (Aphalara itadori) was recently introduced in Pennsylvania as a biological control agent for Japanese knotweed.
Invasive plant profile: Mile-A-Minute
Growth: rapid growth, especially in the July
Thorns, Triangular leaf, reroots periodically
Ways to remove: Manual or Herbicide
Manual removal-
Wear gloves and long sleeves because of the thorns
Gently pull at the base near soil to remove with root intact
Remove before berries product in July
Spring
Pull Sprouts
Summer
Weed Whack before it berries (End of June/ beginning of July)
lessen berry production limiting the spread of the invasive in the area dispersed by birds
The seeds also lie dormant in the soil, lessening the seeds from being in te soil.
Perfect world would be when you see one mile a minute sprout and you pull it before it makes berries
Fall
Mile a minute red vines become very brittle and hold irritating little thorns in the fall. It is worth finding native trees that may be alive underneath the blanket of mile a minute and just moving it to the side so the tree can get sun.
Pull Mother root, and everything connected to it, Bag it and then pull the sprouts it in the spring.
Manually pulling Mile a Minute
Mile a minute has thorns, use gloves when pulling.
Pull gingerly finessing / pulling it out. Pull it at the very base against the soil of this delicate invasive plant to pull the whole root with it.
Pulling it when it is small saves you the head ache of weed whacking it after it already engulfed everything around it.
Weed Whack in end of June/ July before it berries.
Pull the mother root and stick it up in a tree to dry it and kill it.
Bag it - They instruct to put all pulled invasives and/or diseased plants in trash bags to suffocate and cook it in the sun.
When pulling the thorny vines from native trees be mindful of it clinging and taring the leaves but also bending and breaking the tree as the vine's doesn't let go.
It grows rapidly re-rooting every 5 ft in a spidering pattern.
The weight of unchecked growth allows a mass of vines which engulfs small trees and shrubs; its weight can take down a 15-20 ft tree.
The last chance to save natives from its impact is July 4th or the week before. You can still pull it and bag it before it takes down your trees.
If unchecked until August you will need to weed whack the mass from around all the trees.
The seed stock can lye dormant for up to for 7 years in the soil. (Some times they herbicide with pre-emergent to kill the seed stock.)
Alternative ways to manage Mile-a-minute:
We release weavels that only eat mile a minute leaves; this lessens the berry production in the minute a minute plant. which July/August.
Porcelain Berry Vine
Invasive plant profile: Porcelain Berry
Month producing berries: July
How to remove: pry up roots with fiberglass handle pick axe (October through February)
Growth:
rapid growth, especially in the July
Establishes a root system underground which will need to be pulled up.
Grows a blanket of foliage over top every other plant in the area including all the way up trees which with take down old growth trees by starving the tree (and every other plant of sunlight.)
Ways to remove: Manual or Herbicide
Manual removal-
Try to pull up the whole larger root system below while preserving native growth
Remove before berries produce in July
Weed whack if you cannot pull it all
This rapidly growing invasive plant spiders as it grows viney engulfing the area. It is easy to pull when it is small in the spring. If you let it grow unchecked, when you pull it it makes you cry like onions. Not fun.
Removal
pull in the spring